My brother recently bought a pair of Marble hatchetfish which are 3/4 of an inch long. Since these are the first pair of hatchetfish imported to my country(they were mixed with a bunch of red-eye tetras), we have no idea on how to keep them. Any comments would be helpful
P.S. I know that I have to cover the tank
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Marble hatchetfish anyone?
#2
Posted 02 November 2009 - 01:39 PM
I have never kept any of these before, here is what I found on Dr. Fosters site, I copied and posted it here..
"The Marble Hatchet is among the more popular species of fish thanks to its unique shape. Like other Hatchetfish, Carnegiella strigata has a slender body with a deep belly and pectoral fins set high on the body. But the Marble Hatchet also boasts a subtle rainbow of colors that dresses its stunningly shiny brown body. The Marble Hatchet also has an upturned mouth characteristic of true surface feeders.
Native to the rivers of South America, the Marble Hatchet prefers a heavily planted aquarium. It also requires a few floating plants, beneath which the Marble Hatchet can hide. Active schoolers, this member of the Gasteropelecidae family does best when kept in groups of six or more. But since the Marble Hatchet will jump out of the water, an aquarium hood is necessary to help keep the Marble Hatchet safe and contained. In addition, the Marble Hatchet requires excellent water quality.
The Marble Hatchet breeds in soft water (about 5°), and a low pH (about 6.0). A diet of fresh mosquito larvae and fruit flies may trigger spawning and the depositing of eggs on floating plants. The eggs hatch within 36 hours and the fry should be fed a quality live food such as brine shrimp.
A carnivore, the Marble Hatchet will eat floating foods such as freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, high quality flake food, mosquito larvae, small flies, and some other meaty live or frozen foods."
"The Marble Hatchet is among the more popular species of fish thanks to its unique shape. Like other Hatchetfish, Carnegiella strigata has a slender body with a deep belly and pectoral fins set high on the body. But the Marble Hatchet also boasts a subtle rainbow of colors that dresses its stunningly shiny brown body. The Marble Hatchet also has an upturned mouth characteristic of true surface feeders.
Native to the rivers of South America, the Marble Hatchet prefers a heavily planted aquarium. It also requires a few floating plants, beneath which the Marble Hatchet can hide. Active schoolers, this member of the Gasteropelecidae family does best when kept in groups of six or more. But since the Marble Hatchet will jump out of the water, an aquarium hood is necessary to help keep the Marble Hatchet safe and contained. In addition, the Marble Hatchet requires excellent water quality.
The Marble Hatchet breeds in soft water (about 5°), and a low pH (about 6.0). A diet of fresh mosquito larvae and fruit flies may trigger spawning and the depositing of eggs on floating plants. The eggs hatch within 36 hours and the fry should be fed a quality live food such as brine shrimp.
A carnivore, the Marble Hatchet will eat floating foods such as freeze-dried bloodworms and tubifex, high quality flake food, mosquito larvae, small flies, and some other meaty live or frozen foods."
#5
Posted 09 November 2009 - 07:25 PM
Marbeled hatchetfish are not as hardy as their close relatives, the common hatchetfish and the platinum hatchetfish. Marbeled hatchets are difficult to breed. It is best to keep them in soft (peat filtered) water with a pH of around 6.5 or lower. Marbeled hatchets benifit from routine feedings of live red and black mosquito larvea and this may induce them to breed. Good foods that will keep them in top condition are red and black mosquito larvea, and small insects such as fruit flies. They prefer to be kept in groups of 6 or more. By following these instrctions there is a fair chance they will breed.
90 gal. African Planted Swamp Tank IN PROGRESS. Current Stock: Siamese Algea Eater, African Rope fish, African Knifefish, Leopard Ctenopoma x 5 | Current Plants: Anubias Nana
25 gal. Semi-Aggressivve Community. Current Stock: 6 Zebra Danios (Yes, they are aggressive), 4 Bronze Cories, 3 Blind Cave Tetras, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
5 gal. Frog Tank. Current Stock: 1 African Dwarf Frog
2.5 Gal. Betta Tanks. Current Bettas: 1 Male Turquoise Black-Helmet Double-Tail, 1 Female (Unsure of breed)
ALSO: 15 gal. Breeding Tank in use. 22 gal. tank in storage.
25 gal. Semi-Aggressivve Community. Current Stock: 6 Zebra Danios (Yes, they are aggressive), 4 Bronze Cories, 3 Blind Cave Tetras, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
5 gal. Frog Tank. Current Stock: 1 African Dwarf Frog
2.5 Gal. Betta Tanks. Current Bettas: 1 Male Turquoise Black-Helmet Double-Tail, 1 Female (Unsure of breed)
ALSO: 15 gal. Breeding Tank in use. 22 gal. tank in storage.
#7
Posted 10 November 2009 - 04:16 PM
Your welcome
90 gal. African Planted Swamp Tank IN PROGRESS. Current Stock: Siamese Algea Eater, African Rope fish, African Knifefish, Leopard Ctenopoma x 5 | Current Plants: Anubias Nana
25 gal. Semi-Aggressivve Community. Current Stock: 6 Zebra Danios (Yes, they are aggressive), 4 Bronze Cories, 3 Blind Cave Tetras, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
5 gal. Frog Tank. Current Stock: 1 African Dwarf Frog
2.5 Gal. Betta Tanks. Current Bettas: 1 Male Turquoise Black-Helmet Double-Tail, 1 Female (Unsure of breed)
ALSO: 15 gal. Breeding Tank in use. 22 gal. tank in storage.
25 gal. Semi-Aggressivve Community. Current Stock: 6 Zebra Danios (Yes, they are aggressive), 4 Bronze Cories, 3 Blind Cave Tetras, 1 Bristlenose Pleco
5 gal. Frog Tank. Current Stock: 1 African Dwarf Frog
2.5 Gal. Betta Tanks. Current Bettas: 1 Male Turquoise Black-Helmet Double-Tail, 1 Female (Unsure of breed)
ALSO: 15 gal. Breeding Tank in use. 22 gal. tank in storage.
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